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PHOEBE PHILO: CÉLINE In just over a year, Phoebe Philo, 37, has put Céline at the top of the fashion chart with her brand of sexy minimalism. Her spectacular return to the scene after a four-year absence spent raising a young family, proves that a designer can have that elusive work/life balance. Philo first arrived in Paris in 1997 straight out of design school (London's famed Central Saint Martins) where she met Stella McCartney, who later hired her at Chloé. When Stella skipped out to start her own label, Phoebe stepped into the lead role, taking Chloé to new heights of cool with her mix of flirty, floaty 70s-inspired pieces and tiffany and co earring bags such as the Paddington. Philo's reign at Chloé made her one of the industry's bright lights until, surprisingly, she walked away from it all in 2006, to raise her young family. Four years later, she was lured to Céline by the label's history of simply chic sportswear and a promise of a studio in her hometown of London. Today, Philo has changed the direction of current fashion trends away from fanciful embellishment to beautifully minimal collections of wide-leg trousers, leather T-shirts and structured box bags. These minimalist wardrobe fundamentals, along with her designs for Chloé, have earned her the moniker "the Chanel of her generation" from The New York Times-fitting for someone with her eye who is revolutionizing our wardrobes. Lace top and skirt, Céline.

RODARTE The twisted sisters of American fashion, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, are known for wholesale tiffany jewlery unorthodox brand of gothic romance that inspires their semi-couture collections. One would never expect subversion from the shy girls who lived with their parents until graduating university, crafting collections in their Pasadena, Calif., living room. Neither attended fashion design school; instead, spending the year after school on the family couch watching horror flicks. Inspired by film, art and music, the pair then sold Kate's rare record collection for seed money and headed to New York with 10 pieces. In short order, they landed an invitation from Women's Wear Daily and quickly racked up some of the Industry's top design awards, Including the CFDA award for Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2009. Devoted fans of Rodarte (their mother's maiden name) range from Natalie Portman to Michelle Obama, although the sisters don't hesitate to refuse to dress celebrities who don't tiffany and co necklace their image. This artistic temperament extends to their production, taking months to develop dyeing techniques (to get the right red for the "blood-soaked" Fall '08 collection) and hundreds of hours spent pleating and beading a single dress. Recent collaborations with Gap and Target have made their designs available to a larger market and afforded a move Into a downtown Los Angeles studio. Yet, until recently, Kate, 31, and Laura, 30, still shared an email address, a cell phone, and the most avant-garde sensibility in American fashion. Linen/ lace top, wool skirt, leggings, gloves and socks, all Rodarte. Shoes, Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte.

When Miuccia Prada took over her family's luggage company (founded in 1913 by her grandfather), she did so with no design training or sewing skills. During her university days she was an ardent feminist and reported communist (dressed in Yves Saint Laurent, natch) more interested in ideas than aesthetics (she also has a PhD in political science). Perhaps that initial detachment and her continued shunning of the limelight make Prada's offbeat concepts among the most influential collections every season. She was one of the first to be inspired by vintage, to create a status "it" bag (made from ordinary black nylon) and to elevate jolie laide with endless variations on odd colours and proportions. Her quirky approach isn't by accident; each season Prada takes a material or idea she doesn't like (lace, the colour turquoise) and works tiffany and co ring until it's intriguing. She's supported in this unusual philosophy by her husband, Patrizio Bertelli (Prada's CEO), whom she has worked and lived with for 30 years in Milan. In 1993 they established the Fondazione Prada, a non-profit that supports and showcases new artistic talent such as Carsten Höller (he installed a slide from her office to the courtyard below), and Francesco Vezzoli. Today, her appreciation of the arts is reflected not only in her fashion collections but her store designs, advertising videos and artist showcases. Wool coat, leather skirt, $570, and socks, all Prada.

Tom Ford's replacement was let go after two seasons. Since Giannini stepped in, sales have soared, kick-started by the Flora print accessories in 2005an idea taken from a scarf originally made for Grace Kelly in the 1960s. Frida was one of the wholesale tiffany bracelets who helped make the Baguette a monster bag for Fendi and also worked on ready-to-wear with Karl Lagerfeld. Not unlike Ford, Giannini appreciates a little rock 'n' roll edge (she has more than 7,000 record albums in her personal collection). Her slim suits, floral prints and boho sensibility have become Gucci's signatures. In Cannes this year she launched Gucci's new Première couture line, attracting star fans such as Salma Hayek (married to Gucci Group boss François-Henri Plnault) and Naomi Watts. Leather/fox-fur jacket, silk shirt, $1,395, and jersey pant, $895, all Gucci. Shoes, Christian Louboutln. For where-to-buy see Stylesource. Hair, Wesley O'Meara; makeup, Daniel Martin, both The Wall Group; model, Emanuela de Paula, Marilyn Agency.